Only a handful of Outer Banks visitors ever make the ambitious trek to Portsmouth Island, North Carolina but those who do tend to return year after year, and in this video you will learn why. For starters, Portsmouth Island is a small, 13 mile long, southern Outer Banks barrier island, accessible only by a small boat or privately run ferry, located just south of Ocracoke Island on the other side of Ocracoke Inlet. There are no vacation homes, no stores, no businesses and no roads. Because of its' hard-to-get-to location, and lack of modern amenities, Portsmouth Island remains one of the last wild frontiers along the Outer Banks, attracting vacationers who have no problem roughing it, who love being out in the wild, and who embrace this barrier island paradise with unlimited camping options, incredible fishing, and some of the best shelling on the East Coast. Hard to imagine that Portsmouth was once heavily populated with a mixture of settlers, sailors and businessmen. The town was officially established in 1752, and by 1770, was the largest European settlement on the Outer Banks thanks to its role as a lightering port, where cargo from ocean-going vessels could be transferred to shallow-draft vessels capable of traversing Pamlico and Core Sounds. Prior to the Civil War, Portsmouth had a residential population of about 700.
Ironically, the Civil War was one of three events that precipitated an exodus of residents from Portsmouth that continued for over 100 years. The Union’s campaign to occupy North Carolina’s ports targeted Portsmouth Village and many residents fled the island before they could be overcome by the onslaught of troops. Second, the once wide Ocracoke Inlet that attracted so many shipping vessels was slowly starting to close. And, the third event was the expansion of the railroad, connecting virtually every port along the coastline with the mainland. All three contributed to the shipping industry abandoning Portsmouth and more and more residents abandoning Portsmouth in search of work and more fruitful opportunities on the mainland. Within one hundred years, only 17 hardy residents remained on the island with limited supplies, no running water and no electricity. The last two residents, Marion Babb and Elma Dixon, two elderly ladies who had lived in the village for decades, finally and reluctantly left the island in 1971, and the 'town' has been deserted ever since.
It only took a couple of years after being completely abandoned for the village, battered by constant salty winds and no upkeep, to deteriorate. Fortunately, the Cape Lookout National Seashore was created in 1976 and Portsmouth Village was brought back to life. Old buildings that had been left to the elements were refurbished and renovated back to their original condition, and today visitors who stroll the small sandy trails of Portsmouth Island would never guess that it has been over 40 years since anyone called these pristine residences home.
The only way to reach Portsmouth Island is by boat, and perhaps the most convenient method is by taking a private boat across Ocracoke Inlet or Cedar Island to the two small docks that are located on both ends of the island. Visitors who want a more extended stay, or who may not own their own boat can also catch a ride aboard the Morris Marina Ferry based out of Atlantic, NC. Portsmouth Island is genuinely best explored with a 4WD vehicle, and Morris Marina features two small ferries, the Donza Lee and the Green Grass, that can accommodate a half dozen or so such vehicles, and shuttle them to the Portsmouth Island ferry docks at the southern end of the island about a hundred yards from a small handful of cottages managed and maintained by the National Park Service. The ferry ride to Portsmouth Island takes approximately 45 minutes or so, depending on the weather and the number of vehicles on board. Once en route, many newcomers marvel at both the novelty of having a vehicle on board such a small vessel, and the incredible views of Cedar Island, the Pamlico Sound, and Portsmouth Island along the way.
One of the better-known attractions of Portsmouth Island is, of course, the village itself. Completely deserted, visitors can wander through the center of town and take in the historic and perfectly preserved village. Several buildings are open for exploration, including the general store which has glass cases and shelves stocked with 1930s and 1940s goods, and the United Methodist Church, which even features a guest book for visitors to sign. Other attractions include the beaches where shell seekers can find hundreds of perfectly formed North Carolina shells and fishing where anglers can expect to reel in virtually every type of saltwater species that calls the Eastern Seaboard home. Like most areas of the Outer Banks, fishing on Portsmouth Island is seasonal with varieties typically in abundance for a month or two. For more info on what's biting, visit the Portsmouth Island Fishing's website.
Portsmouth Island is unique on the Outer Banks in that tent and RV campers are allowed throughout the island, including on the beaches, the dunes, the maritime forests, and even adjacent to the soundfront for perfect evening sunsets over the water. Basically, if you can find a place to park or pitch a tent stake, then you can set up a temporary home away from home. Of course, all campers are expected to follow the Cape Lookout National Seashore's guidelines, which can be found on the National Park Service website and are advised to leave nothing behind and take nothing with them but pictures, fresh catches, and fantastic seashells. Whenever you visit Portsmouth Island, bug spray is a requirement, especially during June, July and August. Ask me how I know.
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