Recently, I was Down East and I stopped in at the Lookout Grocery in Marshallberg for a bag of Morris Family Shellfish Farm clams. No big deal you might be thinking. But that bag of clams is the result of aqua farming, the future of sustainable fishing and the survival of the small independent fisherman. No one embodies that future better than Jimmy Morris. Back in the 1980’s Jimmy founded the Morris Family Shellfish Farms and the Mill Point Hatchery in the small village of Sea Level, located in Carteret County’s Down East communities. Often described as the dean of North Carolina shellfish mariculture, Morris spent the next 10 years making a slow but steady shift from being a 5th generation commercial fisherman to becoming a full-time, first generation shellfish farmer. Combining his knowledge of working the waters of Core Sound, Styron Bay and Nelson Bay, with revolutionary technology, Morris looked to aquaculture as an opportunity to provide a balanced and steady annual income by controlling the cycles of planting and harvesting clams and oysters.
Not content with simply growing his own oysters and clams, Morris followed his scientific streak and a good dose of natural curiosity and started North Carolina’s first and still longest-serving shellfish hatchery, the Mill Point Hatchery, in an historic fish house in Sea Level. When you realize that a Shellfish hatcheries includes growing algae for food, extending the production season with, broodstock conditioning, spawning, hatching, larval culture, setting, and nursery operations, you can begin to appreciate the magnitude of Jimmy’s accomplishments. But I’m not done yet. . Through his Mill Point Hatchery, Morris provides millions of oyster and clam seed every year to shellfish farmers up and down the east coast.
Although Jimmy Morris could extend the growing season for shellfish, some elements of aqua farming were beyond his control. In 2003, Hurricane Isabel destroyed the Morris family home, along with the original hatchery, nursery and grow-out operations. Learning from that storm, and recognizing that his land is “a finger between two bays,” Morris built a new hatchery much higher on pilings and stronger than the previous building. But in 2018, the farm again had significant damage as Hurricane Florence wrecked havoc on his docks, water tanks, building, and the Hundreds of oyster cages used to grow oysters to maturity. Jimmy Morris retrieved some of these cages deep in the woods surrounding his operation in Sea Level. Again, Jimmy Morris and family transitioned into recovery mode, once again repairing some damaged structures and, in some cases, building new.
Then, in May, 2021, fire destroyed a key building in the Mill Point Hatchery business. Morris discovered the fire when he arrived to check on the oyster larvae in the nursery, something he does every day. He noticed smoke coming from the roof of the building and called 911. The smoke was coming from the A-frame roof of the structure built out over the water. Jimmy shouldered on, making extensive repairs to his nursery, while carrying on with day-to-day operations. After all, He still had 8 to 10 million baby clams that needed water and feed. And when you are down to one recirculating pump, you spend a lot of sleepless nights to ensure that your fellow shellfish farmers get their seed larvae.
Emergencies aside, on any given day, you will find Jimmy Morris on the phone, fielding questions about how to grow oysters and clams. Beginners to experienced growers stop to chat about challenges and expectations for new gear, weather forecasts, etc. And he is still involved in North Carolina Sea Grant’s research. He provides “spat” larvae to the state, larvae which are “set” on shell and placed in designated coastal oyster waters to restore reefs. Restored reefs improve ecosystems, reduce erosion, and boost the wild growth of oysters. And, when not helping to rebuild ecosystems, Jimmy is busy training NC watermen to make the transition from fishing to farming.
Today, three generations of the Morris family work in the aquaculture business. In busy times, they employ up to 10 workers from rural Down East communities. Their shellfish heads to restaurants throughout the region and state, including Sea Level NC, a restaurant in Charlotte. Down East customers, like myself, also know to check the coolers at Lookout Grocery for clams and oysters. Pioneering technology, Hurricanes and fires, notwithstanding, Jimmy Morris has no plans to retire. This body is made to move, he says and that kind of enthusiasm and passion bodes well for the prospects of fresh clams and oysters for vacationers and residents of Carteret County. Here’s a cocktail that marries well with clams. Today’s libation is a take on the Smirnoff Smiler, a cocktail Columnist Walter Winchell popularized back in the early 1950s. Start by coating the rim of a tall glass with celery salt, fill with ice and set aside. Add 2 ounces of vodka (I like Chopin), 4 ounces of Clamato juice, 2 dashes of both Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco and horseradish to taste in a small pitcher or shaker. Add ice and stir or shake to combine. Pour the concoction into the waiting tall glass, garnish with a celery stalk and toast Jimmy Morris.
To learn more about the Crystal Coast and cocktails, go to my website, www.EmeraldIsleHomesforSaleNC.com and sign up for my blog. Ready to buy or sell? Call me at 919-308-2292. Explore the video tab for my weekly uploads to my YouTube channel. Subscribe to my YouTube channel and receive free donuts at my Flip Flops Donut shop. Text your email address to 919-308-2292 and subscribe to my newsletter. My book, "Live Where You Vacation" is available on Amazon.com.
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